Compost is a nutrient-rich fertilizer made from various organic wastes such as grass clippings, food scraps, fallen fruit, straw, dry leaves, and paper. Through the action of oxygen, water, and microorganisms, these materials decompose and transform into a valuable, nutrient-dense mixture. Composting produces an organic material that significantly benefits your garden and its plants when done correctly.
- Materials for Compost
- Details About Compost Components
- What Shouldn’t Be Added to Compost
- Moisture in Compost
- Oxygen in Compost
- Bacteria and Insects in Compost
- Benefits of Composting
- Choosing and Setting Up a Compost Bin
- Maintaining Your Compost Bin
- How to Tell if Your Compost is Ready
- What to Do if Your Compost Smells Bad
Materials for Compost
For optimal composting, it’s important to chop the compost materials into smaller pieces, ideally about 3 inches in size. If the materials are too large, composting will take much longer.
Compost components can be divided into two groups: green and brown materials.
| Green Materials (Materials that are rich in nitrogen) | Brown Materials (Materials that are rich in carbon) |
|---|---|
| Green weeds | Hay |
| Fallen fruit | Paper without ink, shredded cardboard |
| Vegetable and fruit scraps | Small branch trimmings |
| Stems and foliage | Dry leaves |
| Freshly cut, slightly dried lawn grass | Fireplace ash |
Details About Compost Components
When building a compost pile, it’s vital to alternate green (wet and soft) layers with brown (dry and hard) layers. This helps provide proper oxygen flow and makes the composting process faster.
Organic waste decomposes differently based on its nitrogen or carbon content:
- Nitrogen-rich materials: These components generate heat as they break down quickly. The bacteria in this process multiply rapidly and consume a lot of oxygen.
- Carbon-rich materials: These materials are loose and airy, contain a lot of oxygen, and require nitrogen to decompose effectively.
Maintaining a balance between these two types will help achieve an efficient composting process.
Old Foliage, Leaves, and Pruned Flowers
Old plant matter, such as foliage, leaves, and pruned flowers, makes excellent compost material. Even if the plants are diseased and still have spores, you can add them to your compost pile. Worms, beetle larvae, and beneficial microorganisms will break down these organic remnants, making them safe for use.
However, leaving diseased plant matter on your property (outside of the compost pile) can quickly become a source of infection, spreading disease to other plants.
Weeds
In an ideal compost pile, the temperature generated by the breakdown of plant material can reach up to 145°F. At this temperature, almost all seeds and roots will perish. However, if the temperature isn’t high enough, some weeds might survive the composting process and potentially delay or disrupt the decomposition process. You can monitor this process using a compost thermometer to ensure adequate temperature.
Rotten Fruit and Fallen Produce
Collecting fallen fruit promptly from the ground around your trees is important to prevent the spread of harmful spores. Instead of throwing these fruits away, you can use them to make compost. The nutrients from the rotting fruit can help speed up the composting process.
Fungal spores, harmful bacteria, or insect pests cannot survive the composting process as the compost reaches high temperatures. This makes the resulting compost safe to use.
Fallen Leaves
Dry leaves, while not a direct source of nutrients for soil and plants, shouldn’t be left to rot on the ground. They can carry fungal and bacterial diseases and attract pests like insects and rodents.
However, you can freely add fallen leaves to your compost pile. Any leaf type is suitable, even if they are diseased or infested with pests. This way, the leaves break down safely and contribute to the overall nutrient content of the compost.
Grass Clippings
Using grass clippings in your compost helps you avoid issues related to storing and disposing of this material. Letting the grass dry before adding it to the compost pile is essential. Avoid adding a thick layer of grass clippings all at once, as this can cause the grass to mat together, preventing proper air and water flow and disrupting the compost’s process.
Alternatively, you can dry the grass clippings thoroughly and use them as mulch. This not only helps retain soil moisture but also adds nutrients back into the soil as the mulch breaks down.
What Shouldn’t Be Added to Compost
- Raw Meat, Fish Scraps, Dairy Products, Greasy Foods, and Bones: These items can harbor harmful bacteria, produce unpleasant odors, and attract pests like ants and rodents.
- Bread and Baked Goods: These also tend to attract rodents and other pests, leading to potential infestations.
- Pet and Human Waste: Contains pathogens and chemicals, like chlorine, that can inhibit plant growth and pose health risks.
- Plastic, Glass, and Synthetic Fabrics: These materials do not decompose and are not processed by composting bacteria.
- Printed Paper, Newspapers, and Cardboard Dishware: Though they decompose, they often contain inks and chemicals that introduce heavy metals into your compost.
- Wood Shavings and Sawdust: These require a large amount of nitrogen to break down, significantly slowing the composting process.
- Green Waste and Branches Treated with Pesticides: The chemicals can kill beneficial microorganisms that are crucial for composting.
Moisture in Compost
Maintaining the correct moisture level in your compost pile is vital, ideally between 45% and 70%. Think of it like a wrung-out sponge—damp but not soaking wet. If your compost is too dry, bacteria and worms won’t be able to break down the materials. Conversely, if it’s too moist, it will start to rot and release unpleasant odors.
Oxygen in Compost
Oxygen is critical for the decomposition of organic matter. One method of adding oxygen to your compost is to place branches at the bottom of your homemade composter and alternate green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (carbon-rich) layers to ensure proper aeration. This layering technique helps maintain airflow, promoting efficient composting.
Bacteria and Insects in Compost
Bacteria and insects play a crucial role in the composting process. They break down organic matter into nutrient-rich compost, greatly benefiting your garden.
Benefits of Composting
- Reduced Waste
Composting allows you to recycle nearly all organic waste from your yard, such as fallen leaves, weeds, grass clippings, and certain kitchen scraps.
- Replaces Store-Bought Products
Compost can be a natural substitute for store-bought soil, organic fertilizers, and mulch, reducing your need for these products.
- Lowers Environmental Impact
Composting minimizes your environmental footprint, turning waste into valuable resources for your garden.
Choosing and Setting Up a Compost Bin
Step 1: Pick the Right Spot
Before you choose a compost bin, decide where it will go in your yard. Here’s what to consider.
- Easy Access: Pick a spot that’s easy to reach year-round, even in winter.
- Partial Shade: A shady corner is ideal. Too much sun can dry out the pile and slow decomposition.
- Avoid Trees: Tree roots can invade your compost pile, stealing nutrients and causing imbalance.
- Out of Sight: Place your bin somewhere discreet so it doesn’t interfere with your garden’s appearance.
If you live in a hot climate (like Arizona or parts of California), avoid placing your bin in direct sunlight— this can dry it out too quickly.
Step 2: Choose the Right Bin
For beginners, buying a ready-made compost bin is often the easiest and most effective choice. These bins are designed to hold heat, regulate airflow, and keep pests out. There are different sizes depending on how much compostable waste you produce.
| Garden Size | Best for | Recommended Product |
|---|---|---|
| Small | Food scraps and minimal yard waste | VIVOSUN Outdoor Tumbling Composter (43 gal) – Compact, rotates easily, fits on patios |
| Medium | Regular kitchen waste + yard clippings | FCMP Outdoor Dual Chamber Tumbling Composter – Two sections for continuous composting |
| Large | Full-size gardens with lots of plant waste | GEOBIN Compost Bin (246 gal) – Affordable, expandable, great for big yards |
You don’t have to buy a compost bin — many gardeners build their own using wooden pallets or scrap boards.
Step 3: Install Your Compost Bin
Your installation method depends on the type of bin you’re using.
For Enclosed or Raised Bins (Like Tumbling Composters)
These bins are fully enclosed and often stand on legs, so:
- They don’t need to sit on soil.
- Drainage and airflow are built into the design.
- You can place them on any flat, stable surface like gravel, brick, or concrete.
For Open-Bottom Bins (like GEOBIN or DIY wooden bins)
These bins allow your compost to stay in contact with the ground, which helps beneficial insects and worms get in and do their job.
- Set them directly on loosened soil — this improves drainage and invites natural decomposers.
- Start with a 4-inch layer of small branches or woody trimmings to improve airflow and avoid soggy buildup.
Concerned About Animals?
If you’re building your own bin from wooden pallets or fencing, and pests like moles or raccoons are an issue in your area, you can install wire mesh under the bin. Choose mesh with holes no larger than 1 inch to block burrowing animals.
Step 4: Start Composting with Layering and Watering
- First layer. Green material (4–6 inches). Add kitchen scraps, green weeds, or grass clippings.
- Second layer. Brown material (4–6 inches). Add shredded cardboard, dry leaves, or straw.
- Water. Once your pile is about 8 inches high, water it. The pile should feel like a damp sponge, not too wet or dry.
- Repeat. Keep alternating layers as you add more waste over time. Always aim to balance green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (carbon-rich) materials.
- Cover. When your bin is full or your session ends, cover the top with soil (2–3 inches) or close the lid securely. This helps retain moisture and heat.
Maintaining Your Compost Bin
Proper care helps your compost break down faster and prevents unpleasant smells. Here’s what to focus on, regardless of the type of bin you’re using.
You Don’t Need Worms
Worms are great helpers in open-bottom compost bins, but they’re not essential. The main job is done by bacteria and microorganisms, which thrive in any type of bin, even in sealed or raised ones, as long as conditions are right.
Turn the Pile to Add Air
Oxygen is crucial for decomposition.
- In a tumbling composter, turn the handle once or twice a week.
- In a stationary bin or open pile, use a pitchfork to mix the materials every one to two weeks during the warm season.
- In cooler months, you can leave the pile undisturbed. Decomposition slows down naturally in cold weather.
Keep the Right Moisture Level
Your compost should feel like a squeezed sponge, moist but not soggy.
- If it’s too dry, lightly sprinkle water while mixing.
- If it’s too wet and smells bad, add more dry brown materials like leaves, straw, or shredded paper, and mix well.
Add New Material Gradually
Add organic waste regularly in small amounts. Always follow a layer of fresh kitchen scraps with a layer of dry browns. This helps balance moisture and prevents smells or pests.
Do Compost Accelerators Really Help?
If you’re just starting a new pile, compost accelerators can give it a helpful boost — especially in cooler climates or if your compost seems too slow.
You can buy a compost starter (usually made of concentrated bacteria and enzymes) or try natural alternatives like.
- A few handfuls of finished compost from another pile
- A shovel of garden soil (rich in microbes)
- A bit of coffee grounds or molasses (to feed the bacteria)
Accelerators aren’t necessary for most home gardeners, but they can be useful if your pile isn’t heating up or you want quicker results.
How to Tell if Your Compost is Ready
Your compost is ready when it shows these signs.
- Blended Appearance
You shouldn’t be able to pick out individual items like leaves or peels. A few twigs might still be visible, but that is expected.
- Texture
The compost should be crumbly and loose, with a texture similar to rich soil.
- Color
It should have turned a dark brown or almost black color.
- Smell
The compost should have an earthy smell, similar to that of fresh, damp soil or the forest floor.
These signs indicate that your compost is fully decomposed and ready to boost your garden’s nutrients.
What to Do if Your Compost Smells Bad
A properly managed compost pile shouldn’t smell unpleasant. If it does, it means something has gone wrong. Here are some common problems and their solutions.
- Too Much Moisture
If your compost is heavy and wet and emits a soggy, rotten smell, it probably has too much moisture. To fix this, turn the pile to aerate it and add carbon-rich materials like dry leaves, straw, or small branches.
- Excessive Green Material
A thick layer of green material can cause an imbalance, leading to undesirable odors. To balance the nitrogen-rich green materials, rebuild the pile by mixing in cardboard, dry leaves, or straw.
- Improper Food Scraps
Meat, fish, eggs, and greasy foods can cause unpleasant smells in compost. If these items are causing the odor and are hard to remove, try adding more carbon-rich materials on top to help clear the smell.
Final Thoughts
Compost is a practical and versatile tool for any home gardener. It improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and helps retain moisture. You can use it as fertilizer, mulch, or a way to recycle large amounts of yard and kitchen waste right at home.
As more people look for simple ways to reduce household waste and make more sustainable choices, composting is becoming a natural part of everyday life. It doesn’t require much to get started, and even small efforts can make a difference over time — both in your garden and in how much you send to the landfill.
If you have a bit of outdoor space and regular plant-based scraps, composting is worth trying. It’s low-cost, low-maintenance, and delivers real results.
